• Phillips Head Screw Driver (#2 medium sized head)
• 5 in ! Tool or Putty Knife. The 5 in 1 Tool is like a putty knife on steroids with additional notches and shapes on the side of the blade to do other tasks.
• New Draft Door and Hardware. There are instructions inside the kit.
This was the area I was most worried about but in many ways turned out to be about the easiest part of the job. You need to remove the grill grid, fire ring, clean out the charcoal and then take out the firebox before proceeding with the work. Then you loosten the four bolts using the Phillips head screwdriver on the outside and 3/8 wrench on the inside. This Egg I have on for two years now, But there was no difficulty removing the bolts. I then got the five and one tool under one of the flanges of the draft door and it pried off very easily. This surprised me a little bit and I was glad it came off this easily. Frankly I was a little worried about the door being stuck on so well that the sealant would take some of the glazed ceramic with it. I was able to use the 5 in 1 tool to get off 90% of the remaining silicon. Then I use rolled up balls of some of the used silicon, my fingernails or my fingertips to peel off the rest. I really didn't want to use a silicone solvent where I was going to be putting the draft door right back on with new silicon. I also didn't want to use a metal tool and risk removing the glazing. Removing the remnants of the two horizontal beads of silicon Took just under an hour. It was the most time-consuming portion of the work, but certainly not rocket science.
Several people have suggested to me that it might be easier to have a second person to help put the new draft door on. I did several dry fittings of the door before making my decision to go it alone. I did have someone who could help me, but I elected to go it alone. It seemed like a second pair of hands might actually get in the way due to the close quarters. I pressed the draft door on with bolts in the top two holes to help position the draft door properly. One thing I learned while test fitting the new door was the bolts are a little fussy and non intuitive to place. They don’t go in perpendicular to the face of the radiussed draft door, they go straight in front to back. Besides being curved, the sides of the Egg are also angled in the vertical direction. My plan was to place the top edge of the draft door & top bead of silicone on first using the bolts too help me get the proper location. Then I would swing the base of the draft door upwards and to the rear to make contact with the ceramics just below the draft door cut out. This looked good when there was no silicone on the draft door so this was the original plan going in.
Before applying the silicone, you remove the inner and outer doors. The directions said you apply a horizontal bead of silicone on the upper and lower horizontal edges of the draft door. They suggested using the old draft door to give you an idea of the proper placement. There was nothing tricky here. The bead of silicone ran along the edge, which I had already gathered from reading the directions. The interesting thing was, they did NOT have you apply a vertical bead of silicone, which surprised me a bit. I ran about a 1/8” bead of silicone along the entire length of top and bottom edges of the new draft door. This silicone came in a tube like toothpaste and you squeezed the tube to squeeze it out. This was much easier for me than using a caulk gun. I used a bead that was about 1/8” wide (3 mm) which proved to be too narrow, but I am getting ahead of myself here.
I then placed a 50 percent wider bead of silicone on the back of the draft door and came at things from a different direction so to speak. For “Take 2” I also used the top bolts to help me get the proper position on the ceramics before pressing the draft door into place. The big difference this time around was I tilted the draft door to match the slope of the side of the Egg. This way in theory the entire draft door made contact with the ceramics all at once. Positioning it this way was indeed more difficult due to having to tilt the draft door too. I carefully moved it into position and it made even contact. I pushed and held it in place while I put nuts on the top two bolt and tightened then down finger fight. You must hold the draft door securely against the ceramics, it seems to have a slightly different radius than the ceramics it mates with You must hold it in place like this until you have snugged down all of the bolts. Looking at the top joint I had a nice continuous bead. I then pushed the two lower bolts through the draft door and through the ceramic walls of the Egg. This was not easy because of the odd angle you end up pushing them through at and some silicone had plugged the holes in the draft door. While I was doing this, I also had to keep pressure against the door to hold it in the proper position. So I poked around with a bamboo skewer until I located the position of the holes in the ceramics. I snugged these two bolts down and then went around and tightened all of the bolts sequentially in several tightening sessions. The door also had a nice bead of silicone along the bottom edge. The hard parts were done.
I ran my finger along the top and bottom edges of the draft door to smooth out the bead of silicone and remove any excess. I checked to make sure there was no excess silicone in the door tracks and reinstalled the two doors. Just when I thought I was done and was giving the work a final inspection, something occurred to me. There was no vertical bead of silicone called for and I noticed there was a small, but visible gap at each end of the draft door. In theory air could get in from the ends, particularly the left side which fairly close to the draft door opening. I tried pushing some stiff paper in to see if it would emerge out of the other side near the opening to the Egg. It didn’t and it appeared like the draft door frame flattens out a bit where the frame bolts to the Egg. I decided to take a ride to the dealer where I bought the silicone and check out one of their display models to see what kind of gap they had at the end. The gap I had was certainly no more than any of the display models at the store, so I am going to relax for now. I will admit to being a bit puzzled though as to why they don’t have you run a vertical bead of silicone.